Speaking on the ‘Long Form’ podcast by Sanny Ntayombya, McCormick opened up about his experiences cooking for President Paul Kagame, who he said he has cooked for at least five times, along with his family.
He detailed the “pressure and scrutiny” that came with preparing meals for the Head of State, who, according to McCormick, prefers a healthy diet.
“It was a lot of pressure the first time, but after that, as they got to know me, it eased up,” said McCormick, referring to the President’s handlers and the chefs at Urugwiro Village.
He recounted an intimate gathering where he observed President Kagame watching a football match, a moment that humanized the leader often seen through a lens of political and historical significance in the liberation struggle of Rwanda in the early 1990s.
Starting anew in Rwanda
McCormick, who now owns the Le Petit Chalet restaurant and Kigali Pizza Company in Kigali, along with the fine dining establishment Lilly, also discussed his life-changing decision to move to Rwanda during the height of the global COVID-19 pandemic in 2020.
After losing his job in the U.S., where he had worked in various high-profile positions, including as a corporate executive chef managing multiple restaurants, McCormick found himself at a crossroads.
“The circumstances made it so it wasn’t a normal life journey,” McCormick explained, reflecting on his move to Rwanda.
He cited his desire to raise his children in a different cultural and political climate as a primary motivator for the relocation.
“I moved here because of my kids. I wanted them to grow up in a different system, away from the political and social divisions in the U.S. at the time. I felt it would be better for them to experience life differently,” the chef remarked citing President Kagame’s strong leadership.
McCormick’s wife, originally from Ethiopia, was equally enthusiastic about the move, seeing it as an opportunity to return to Africa.
“My wife felt the same way I did about moving; she left Ethiopia at around 13 and finished high school in Toronto before moving to the U.S., giving her a broad perspective from living in different places. She always wanted to return to Africa, considering the whole continent her home, not just Ethiopia. So when I presented the opportunity to move to Rwanda, she was 100% on board, especially given the circumstances back home and the global situation with the pandemic. Why not leave?” he stated.
McCormick’s journey in Rwanda has not been without its challenges. He discussed the high failure rate of restaurants, noting that in America, 90% of restaurants don’t survive their first year. In Rwanda, however, he finds the market less competitive but still demanding.
“You need a lot of skill, dedication, and an understanding of the local economy,” McCormick stated, emphasizing the need for adaptability and creativity in menu planning to cater to both local and expatriate diners.
McCormick has managed to find success in Kigali by blending international flavours with local tastes, although he admits to missing the larger market and variety he experienced in the U.S.
His restaurants have become popular spots for both Rwandans and foreigners, with the Le Petit Chalet particularly noted for its Eurocentric menu and standout dishes like French Onion Soup and Chalet Potatoes.
Looking ahead, Chef McCormick is not resting on his laurels. He plans to expand his culinary empire within Rwanda, with ambitions to open a dry-aged steakhouse, a jazz bar, and possibly another pizza outlet, perhaps even at the new Kigali International Airport.
He also expressed interest in establishing a non-profit culinary school to nurture local talent, recognizing a gap in the training and development of restaurant staff in Rwanda.
When questioned about the future of Rwanda’s food scene, McCormick was cautiously optimistic. He noted the absence of Michelin stars in Africa but suggested that with the right focus on local ingredients and innovation, Rwanda could carve out its own culinary identity.
Wycliffe Nyamasege
